December/January 2022-23 / Hurtigruten / MS Richard With / Bergen return – Norwegian Coastal Express

Our trip up the Norwegian Coast on the Richard With was a completely different and wonderful experience. The ship is a cross between a standard cruise ship and a coastal ferry that carried about 350 passengers. The size meant you got to know your fellow passengers and the crew which was lovely. The cabins are small but the heated floors in the bathroom are wonderful – and great for drying out wet weather gear. I loved the talks from the knowledgeable crew that preceded each area we went to, and I learned a lot about Norwegian history, geography and natural phenomena like the Northern Lights. Meals were included and were better than I expected.  We were very lucky and saw the Northern Lights on three separate occasions on the trip north. The best was when we were at the entrance to Trollfjord and the lights came out to play for about an hour above the majestic cliffs of the fjord.

The other highlights for me were dogsledding during the polar night from Tromso, and visiting the snow hotel in Kirkenes. Both places were absolute winter wonderlands, but being pulled though the moonlit snowy landscape by a team of enthusiastic sled dogs was something I will never forget.